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In surfing, coming to terms with death -- or at least the possibility -- is an ongoing crisis in big waves. The set is building outside, and it's so beautiful, aesthetically. People are watching in awe from the beach: the blue water, the stiff offshore winds, the 40-foot walls charging in from the open ocean. If you're out there with nothing but your body, your wits and a surfboard, that set can be your coffin.

BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles

As for my own surfing, let's just say that when the waves start pushing 10 feet, I get this tremendous urge to make a sandwich.

BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles

Surfing is for life.

BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles


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