SURFING QUOTES

quotations about surfing

Surfing quote

Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life.

MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing

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Surfing is for life.

BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles

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In a moment I might be under the wave swallowing seawater and small jellyfish, but right now I am an ancient princess of Hawaii, I am a bikini model, I am a goddess before the crest of a monster billow.

WILMA JOHNSON, Surf Mama: One Woman's Search for Love, Happiness, and the Perfect Wave

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Some surfers won't surf during dusk or dawn in places known to have an active shark population. Many prefer to have a buddy with them while surfing, as being the only bait out at a surf point is just a little too creepy.

BETHANY HAMILTON, Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family and Fighting to Get Back on the Board

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Truly, the waves are like women, for men watch them long and understand them but little.

UNKNOWN, Galaxy Science Fiction, Volume 19, Issue 4

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If in doubt, paddle out.

NAT YOUNG, "The best surfing quotes of all time", Surfer Today

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The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun.

DUKE KAHANAMOKU, attributed, For Extreme-Sports Crazy Boys Only

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I thought how, with the peeling wave as an ideal of perfection, the surfer's object of passion becomes the very essence of ephemerality--not a thing to be owned or a goal to be attained but rather a fleeting state to inhabit. So much more of my time, after all, passed in the dreaming and searching than in the actual riding of waves; so much more time spent driving the coast and floating between sets. Of a whole year of devotion, probably no more than a day was spent truly on my feet and surfing, so I couldn't view such a moment as this without an ardent, frustrated desire, a near-religious craving for wholeness. Unlike so many other passions: while one might, I suppose, wish for a bloom to remain in blossom, for a ripening grape to hang always on the vine--yearnings John Keats made his own, for fleeting beauty and youth, the understandably hopeless hope that we might freeze our world's better moments--the wave's plenitude is rather in the peeling of the petal, the very motion of the falling fruit.

DANIEL DUANE, Caught Inside: A Surfer's Year on the California Coast

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One of the greatest things about the sport of surfing is that you need only three things: your body, a surf-board, and a wave.

NAIMA GREEN, Surfing: Rules, Tips, Strategy, and Safety

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There's nothing quite like surfing by yourself in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, but unpredictable weather patterns, below deck accommodation, sea snakes, coral cuts and packs of reef sharks make it a trip for the committed seadog.

MARK THORNLEY, Surfing Australia

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Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it.

PAUL STRAUCH, attributed, Surfing Hawaii

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The balance and patience factors are much more critical in surfing than they are in snowboarding ... if you're out surfing serious waves and you wipe out, you don't land on soft snow. It's usually either very sharp coral, or you get raked across the beach gravel and sand while you're tumbling underwater.

FREDERICK LENZ, Snowboarding to Nirvana

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Every now and then, we would hear reports through the grapevine of big-wave riders on the North Shore [of Oahu] drowning, and for the first time I began to understand why so many of the great California surfers never gave the North Shore a try, or if they did, they came back home and never tried it again.

MIKE DOYLE, Morning Glass

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In surfing, coming to terms with death -- or at least the possibility -- is an ongoing crisis in big waves. The set is building outside, and it's so beautiful, aesthetically. People are watching in awe from the beach: the blue water, the stiff offshore winds, the 40-foot walls charging in from the open ocean. If you're out there with nothing but your body, your wits and a surfboard, that set can be your coffin.

BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles

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As for my own surfing, let's just say that when the waves start pushing 10 feet, I get this tremendous urge to make a sandwich.

BRUCE JENKINS, North Shore Chronicles

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Surfing expresses ... a pure yearning for visceral, physical contact with the natural world.

MATT WARSHAW, Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing

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If you're having a bad day, catch a wave.

FROSTY HESSON, Making Mavericks

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This is the kind of challenge that the wild, unfurling ocean presents to surfers: the music it makes is often impossible to follow, but surfing is about improvising in brilliant ways that utilize the sea's surprises.

SAM BLEAKLEY, Surfing Brilliant Corners

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Surfing is climbing from a warm bed in predawn's coolness, a sleepy drive, coffee and doughnuts at a roadside diner and the clatter of surfboards as they're unstacked from a car rack. Surfing is the joy of watching a sun rise slowly into the sky. It's crisp, clean waves, crests blown high by an offshore wind. It's gray mist, dampness and cold sand under bare feet, the lonely cry of a gull sweeping across silent, brooding seas. On a big day, surfing is a strong swell and waves that have lost their playfulness. Then it's stomach knots, high exultation, a trace of fear.

FRED WARDY, "Surfing Is", The Perfect Day: 40 Years of Surfer Magazine

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Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.

BUZZY TRENT, Surfer, March 1965

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